Is this Britain's most underrated national park?
Take the lavender fields of Provence, turn up the purple a notch or two, elevate to 300 or 400 metres and – ta-dah! – you have the horizon-stretching, heathery acres of the North York Moors in mid-August.
It is heady, head-turning, mesmerising stuff, and the biggest stretch of heather moorland in England and Wales; a purple playground where you can walk, romp, relax or just search for the perfect Instagram shot. Although the heather reaches its peak in August, it lingers on until mid-September.
Here are some of the best ways to get a Yorkshire heather fix, and then recover.
Embark on an Exploration
The North York Moors are teeming with numerous walking trails offering stunning views and nature experiences. Detailed maps and leaflets can be obtained from the Visitor Centres of North York Moors National Park or northyorkmoors.org.uk. An awe-inspiring route commences at the Saltergate car park, along the A169, which boasts of breathtaking views of the vast amphitheatre of the Hole of Horcum. Although local folklore credits a giant named Wade for creating the hole when he missed a throw aimed at his wife, the more plausible cause seems to be spring-induced landslip. Listen carefully and you might hear the unique calls of curlews, lapwing and golden plovers.
Guided Walks and Pubs | Discover charming trails that initiate and culminate at a distinct inn
As you set off on your journey from the picturesque Rosedale Abbey, you might be enticed by the thought of a cozy place to rest after a day of exploration. Not far from the trails, The Black Swan Inn provides a perfect sanctuary for weary hikers. With its rustic charm and hearty meals, it's an excellent choice for those looking to recharge overnight. More details can be found on their website: yorkshire-hotel.com. One such trail is a circular route leading to Lastingham, home to the magnificent St Mary's Norman church featuring an excellently preserved crypt. As you marvel at the architecture, it’s only a matter of time before your thoughts turn to your next destination. For those who prefer a hint of marine zest in their adventure, the trail connecting Ravenscar and Robin Hood’s Bay offers an excellent choice. This coastal walk not only provides breathtaking views but also leads you to a selection of some of the finest accommodations along the seaside. For more options on where to stay, consider visiting tophotels.com, where you can choose from a diverse range of lodging to suit your needs and enhance your coastal experience. Upon completion of your walk, what could be better than a celebratory drink at the Bay Hotel bayhotel.info - marking the official end of the famed coast-to-coast trail. Whether feeling the satisfaction of completing this legendary trek or just soaking up the local beauty, the memories created along these trails will be treasured for years to come.
Take in the views
Have a good breakfast before tackling Roseberry Topping which, at 320 metres, offers a short but steep 30-minute pull up this ice-cream-cone-shaped hill on the northern edge of the moors. The views from here are pretty incredible and stretch all the way from the coast to the Yorkshire Dales.
For something wilder, drive up to the The Lion Inn which sits in splendid isolation at 404 metres on Blakey Ridge. From its car park, purple-coated moorland ridges and soft green valleys recede into the distance with an edge-of-the-universe unreality.
If you’re in search of the perfect romantic spot, take the short woodland path that bursts, unexpectedly, onto the wide greensward of Rievaulx Terrace (nationaltrust.org.uk; £6.60), book-ended by two temples: a Tuscan rotunda and a rectangular Ionic temple. Built in the 1750s by the Duncombe family of nearby Duncombe Park, it was designed to perfectly capture the sight of the ruined 13th-century Rievaulx Abbey (english-heritage.org.uk; £9.80) nestling in a cup of wooded slopes below.
Chill out
Tucked in the shadow of the town’s 12th-century castle, Helmsley Walled Garden (helmsleywalledgarden.org.uk; £7.50) is a tranquil space in which to clear the head. Those wealthy Duncombes built the original kitchen garden in the 18th century but it’s hard-working volunteers who have restored it with its wildflower meadow, ‘hot' border flashing vibrant reds, oranges and yellows, apple orchard of old English varieties and peaceful Garden of Contemplation.
17 photographs that prove Yorkshire is England's greatest county
For a gentle ride back in time, hop aboard The North Yorkshire Moors Railway whose steam engines run 24 miles from Pickering to Whitby pulling vintage coaches. This is a fine way to experience several aspects of the National Park, from woodland glades to secret valleys and the track's highest point, Goathland Summit (162 metres), to the steep cliffs of Whitby.
Hop on and off at any station (nymr.co.uk; from £29 all-day rover). Grosmont’s Old School Coffee Shop (grosmontcoffeeshop.co.uk) is a good place to take a break and enjoy a proper Yorkshire cuppa while enjoying track-side views of passing trains.
Unwind with a Classic Tea Break
Given that you're in the picturesque environs of Yorkshire, indulging in an authentic tea experience is pretty much a rite of passage. Why not elevate this experience by choosing the refined elegance of the Black Swan? Located right in the heart of Helmsley Market place, the Black Swan (blackswan-helmsley.co.uk) is a gracious coaching inn with a history extending to the Elizabethan era. Here, you can immerse yourself in a lavish tea serving, accentuated by neat white linens, cake stands teeming with tempting treats, all set in rooms decorated with vintage wood panels. Their tea menu is quite distinct and varied, with innovative selections such as Gin and Tonic tea, accompanied by comprehensive tasting notes.
For a cozier atmosphere, you can head over to the quaint tea room nestled behind the village Post Office in Middleton (middletonteaparlour.co.uk). This hidden gem offers a tea experience that feels like a warm hug, thanks to the dainty china and teapots, hand-stitched cloths, gleaming vintage cake stands, and the soothing notes of soft, melodic tunes. All food items here are lovingly homemade, and their apple cake with tangy Bramley lemon curd comes highly recommended, truly representing the essence of homemade Yorkshire desserts.
Try something unexpected
Take the footpath from Bridestones Car Park in Dalby Forest (forestry.gov.uk; £9 vehicle entry), climb up through the trees and emerge into a surreal landscape of giant grey mushroom-like rocks. Huge, other-worldly and slightly mystical, these vast boulders (the Bridestones) are perched like standing stones – the result of aeons of weathering on 150-million-year-old sedimentary rock.
More tranquil are the surprises at The Ryedale Folk Museum (ryedalefolkmuseum.co.uk; £7.95) in picture-perfect Hutton-le-Hole where 20 vernacular buildings – including a Victorian photographic studio, 18th-century cruck cottage, and early 20th-century chemist’s shop – have been transported and rebuilt. Look out for the sweets and treats in the 1950s village shop – Aero bars and Chivers table jellies – and check out the farm’s handsome collection of fabulously feathered, rare-breed hens.
Further information: North York Moors National Parknorthyorkmoors.org.uk
